A CAT IS FOR LIFE!
Please think carefully before you decide to get a kitten or cat. It is important that you fully understand and accept the responsibility that you are taking on. Do you feel confident that you can give him all the time and care that he will need for a possible 20 years?Thousands of cats and kittens are handed over to rescue organisations every year, often because people are simply fed up with them. Unfortunately, many of these unwanted cats and kittens are destroyed because there are just not enough homes.
Please consider adopting your cat or kitten (or a pair) from an animal charity or rescue centre.
ARRIVAL DAY
Before you bring your new cat or kitten home, we recommend that you prepare a quiet area especially for him. You need to make sure that he is safe and secure, with access to his litter tray, food and water. Having the run of a new home immediately can sometimes cause a new cat/kitten to feel anxious and disorientated, as well as getting into mischief.Check that all the doors and windows are closed securely, fireplaces are covered and the area is quiet, warm and safe. Place a litter tray, a cosy bed (a cardboard box with a blanket is fine), some toys, food dish and water bowl in the area for him.
On arrival, take him to his ‘safe place’ and show him where everything is. Let him explore his new surroundings without feeling threatened. Depending on the confidence of your new cat/kitten, this ‘safe area’ may only be necessary for a few hours or a few days. However, you will need to keep your home secure to prevent escape, for the recommended three week (approx.) settling period.
Settling a timid cat or introducing a cat into a home with existing pets.
It may be necessary for a timid cat to have a confined space, like a small room as his ‘safe place.’ You can stay in the area/room but sit quietly and after a little while, put your hand out to him and call his name, letting him come to you. If he decides to hide, whether it be for a few hours or a few days, do not attempt to force him out. Just continue to visit his ‘safe place’ and gently gain his trust. Offering some tasty treats will help.
If there are children or other pets in the house, it is best not to introduce them until he has gained his confidence. With some gentle persuasion and patience, your new arrival with soon be purring and enjoying a fuss.
Kittens
A young kitten will need more supervision at the beginning, to make sure he doesn’t come to any harm. Check loo seats are down and the doors of washing/tumble dry machines are closed.Remember, he may have left his mother and siblings for the first time and he will be feeling insecure and frightened. He will need lots of fuss and attention, but only gentle handling. You can always place a hot water bottle (not too hot), under his blanket and give him a soft toy to snuggle up to.
SETTLING IN
A new cat or kitten needs to feel safe and secure before he can begin to settle in to his new home. After a few days or possibly weeks, your cat or kitten will feel confident enough to explore the rest of his new home. However, you must wait at least 3 weeks before allowing him to venture outside.A young kitten should wait longer, as he must have completed his primary course of vaccinations (an adult cat must also be fully vaccinated). Always accompany the newcomer on his first few outings as he explores his new environment. Make sure he is totally familiar with his territory before letting him out on his own. (tip: let him out when he is hungry, so he will want to return home for his meal).
Any kitten under 6 months of age, should not be left outside alone. At this stage, they should be wearing a collar and identity tag.
KEEP HIM SAFE, KEEP HIM IN AT NIGHT!!
Children
Once you feel that your new cat or kitten has gained his confidence, you can gradually introduce other members of the family.Excitable children must try to be calm and quiet around the new arrival. Young children must be supervised and shown the correct way to handle him. Make sure they understand that although he may enjoy being fussed and played with, he must also be allowed to sleep and seek privacy. At all times, children must be kind and gentle to their new family member.
Other pets
If you are introducing other pets to your new cat or kitten, please take it slowly, as it can sometimes take several weeks for them to get used to each other.Where cats are involved, it is perfectly normal to expect a certain amount of hissing, spitting and growling (from both sides)! This may be followed by a swipe or full blown battle of claws! Never leave them alone together at this stage.
To avoid an aggressive confrontation and help ease introduction, follow these steps:
- Allow them to smell each other’s scent through a closed door or on your clothes.
- Place their food bowls on each side of the door and feed them at the same time.
- Make an extra fuss of the resident cat.
- Begin to let the newcomer explore outside his room, while keeping the resident cat out of the way.
- Introduce them under supervision.
- Place their bowls at a reasonable distance and feed them together.
- Stroke them both at feeding time, to make this a positive experience (extra for resident cat!)
- Allow litter tray each at first.
EQUIPMENT
- Carrier - a secure, covered wire or plastic pet carrier.
- Litter tray - a good sized plastic litter tray, possibly with a clip on cover. Chose from wood, paper or clay based litter.
- Collar - must have a proper quick release catch/elastic. Reflective ones available. Do not use on very young kittens. Make sure two fingers can slip underneath.
- Identification - a metal engraved tag, bearing your phone number and your vet’s phone number. Microchip as an optional extra precaution.
- Bedding - either a comfy cat bed or simply a basket or box with a cushion or blanket. Regularly wash and treat for fleas.
- Scratch post - very useful when attempting to protect your furniture and fun for sharpening claws.
- Toys - balls with bells, pretend mice, feathers or balls on elastic, cotton reels, scrunched up silver foil, etc.
- Cat flap - gives your cat the choice to go in and out at will. Must be lockable to keep your cat in and other cats out at night.
- Food and water bowls - plastic, stainless steel or ceramic. (cats prefer not to drink water out of plastic ).Clean bowls everyday.
GENERAL CARE
Feeding
When you take on a cat or kitten, try to find out what diet he is used to or what he prefers. A young kitten should be fed 4 times a day, with a specially formulated kitten food. This may come as ‘wet’ food in sachets and tins or in a dry complete form. Give him small amounts each time. If he is crying for more, then you can increase the amounts; he will not overfeed himself. By 3 months he can be fed 3 times a day and by 6 months you can wean him on adult food, fed twice a day. An adult cat will eat about 3/4 tin or 2 good handfuls of dry complete a day.Water must be available at all times. Most cats and kittens cannot tolerate cows milk, so if you wish to give him a treat, offer him specially prepared cat milk.
Litter Training
Most cats and kittens will be fully litter trained by the time you acquire them. Kittens learn this from their mothers.Place the tray in a quiet, accessible place. Always remove ’mess’ promptly and completely clean and wash the tray, at least every other day. More than one cat will mean more frequent cleaning. Never use bleach or disinfectant (unless specifically for animal use).
Once your cat or kitten has access to the outside, he may chose to do the majority of his business there. However, you should still provide a litter tray.
If your cat or kitten is not clean at first, then you must confine him to one room with his litter tray, until he learns to use it regularly. Make sure the tray is not placed too close to his bed or food. If your kitten or cat continues to mess, then there will be a reason, as they are very clean animals by nature. Either he is not well, the tray is dirty, or he is stressed about something. If this is the case, call us for advice.
Hygiene
Litter trays are often regarded as unhygienic and unnecessary. As long as you clean them regularly, wash your hands each time, worm and de-flea your cats, then they shouldn’t pose any health threat. Where babies and young children are concerned, treat the tray the same as any other potential household danger, move from reach, supervise and say ‘NO’.Toxoplasmosis
All to often, cats become unwanted when their pregnant owners are wrongly advised about the potential threat of the parasite Toxoplasma; even though the risk of transmission is very unlikely and easily avoided. In fact, unwashed vegetables and under-cooked meat pose more of a threat. Either someone else can clean the tray or simply wear protective gloves and wash your hands every time!Healthcare and Neutering for Your New Cat or Kitten
Our second page on Cat Care, gives advice and information about Healthcare, including Neutering, for your new cat or kitten. Our first leaflet deals with settling in your cat or kitten. Please read both leaflets carefully.When you take on a cat or kitten, you must be absolutely sure that you can provide him with all the healthcare that he will need throughout his life. Apart from routine healthcare, such as regular treatment for fleas and worms, annual vaccinations and neutering, you must be prepared for the unexpected health problems.
Whether your cat or kitten develops an illness or is involved in an accident, he will need professional veterinary care, which is expensive. There are organisations such as C.P.L., R.S.P.C.A and Blue Cross who offer low cost veterinary care to owners on low income or benefit. You could consider taking out Pet Insurance or setting up a ‘cat fund’, putting money aside regularly.
ROUTINE HEALTHCARE
Grooming
It is a good idea to get your cat or kitten accustomed to being groomed. A long-haired cat will need his coat carefully and regularly (daily) combed and brushed, to keep his fur free from tangles and matting. Before you take on a ‘fluffy’ cat or kitten, consider whether you have the extra time needed for this daily task.Although cats are experts in ‘self-cleaning’, with their barbed tongues and fastidious grooming routine, even short-haired cats need brushing to remove dead hairs and prevent hairballs building up inside their stomachs.
Your grooming routine should also include checking your cat’s teeth, claws and ears. Cat toothpaste is available and can be used with a baby’s soft toothbrush. Many cats require a dental at some point but regular cleaning will help to prevent this.
If he is an indoor or an older cat, his claws may grow too long and begin to curl. In this case, they will need to be clipped. It may be easier and safer to enlist the help of a veterinary nurse or professional groomer.
Ear mites
You should regularly check your cat or kitten’s ears for ear mites. If you find a grey/brown wax inside the ears, with possible signs of irritation, then this could be an indication of mites. Take him to your vet to be checked and treated.Fleas
Fleas are parasites that feed off their host ie: your cat or dog. They then drop off in to the surrounding environment to lay their eggs. The eggs then hatch and grow into adult fleas, repeating the cycle. With central heating, this problem continues throughout the year.Regular treatment of fleas is essential to prevent major flea infestation. Your vet will supply you with and advise on the different applications available. Sprays and drops are usually applied every 4-6 weeks. Remember to treat all animals in the household.
Apart from your cat or kitten scratching himself, look out for brown specks of flea dirt in his coat or in his bed, as an indication the presence of fleas. It is also important to treat your carpets, furniture and cat’s sleeping area with a spray from your vet .
Worms
‘Worms’ are the types of parasites that live inside the gut of a cat or kitten (dog or puppy). The most common are roundworms and tapeworms. Outward signs of worm infestation can be diarrhoea or constipation, erratic appetite, swollen belly and general poor condition. Fleas can be the cause of worms in cats, so it is important to regularly treat for both.Kittens should be treated at the age of 4-6 weeks. From then, every 3 weeks until they are 4 months old. After this, they can be treated every 3-4 months. Use preparations obtained only from your vet. These come in the form of granules, liquid or a tablet.
VACCINATIONS
All cats and kittens are at risk of contracting several potentially fatal viral diseases during their lifetime. Fortunately, we are able to offer vaccinations against three of the most common.Feline Infectious Enteritis (F.I.E.)
Caused by a strain of virus called parvovirus which is spread through an infected cat’s faeces, and other bodily fluids. Fleas can also help to transmit the virus. In extreme cases, an infected cat can suddenly stop eating and die within a few hours. It is more usual for a cat to show symptoms of depression, high temperature, vomiting, inability to drink, followed by diarrhoea. Hospitalisation and re-hydration is required. Prevention of F.I.E. is vital as the mortality rate is high.Cat ‘flu’
A general term for feline upper respiratory disease, usually resulting from a viral infection. The viruses responsible are highly contagious; transmitted mainly by sneezing, direct facial contact and food bowls. The main viruses responsible are the herpesvirus and calicivirus. Symptoms range from lack of appetite, fever, sneezing, discharges from eyes and nostrils and severe inflammation of the eyes. The calicivirus causes severe ulceration of the mouth and tongue. Antibiotics are usually administered to combat any secondary infections but cannot really treat the symptoms. Cat ‘flu’ can be fatal in kittens and older cats.Feline Leukaemia (FeLV)
Another nasty virus which can cause cancer of the white blood cells, other cancers and suppression of the immune system. An infected cat cannot fight off disease and may develop inflammation of the gums, skin and bladder infections. Also diarrhoea and anaemia may follow. The virus is generally transmitted by prolonged direct physical contact with an infected cat; mainly through saliva, urine and faeces.Vaccination is recommended, although a vaccinated cat should never be deliberately exposed to FeLV (no vaccination is 100%). Sadly most cats will succumb to infection within 3 1/2 yrs. of the diagnosis. The vaccination for leukaemia can now be given as part of a triple vaccine with the enteritis and cat flu.
The primary course of vaccinations can be given from 9 weeks of age, followed by a second injection 3 weeks later. Your cat or kitten should not go outside until a week after the course is completed. To ensure immunity, you must follow up with an annual single booster.
- Primary course costs between: £45/£65 (inc. leuk.)
- Annual booster costs between: £25/£35
NEUTERING
As a responsible and caring pet owner, it is essential that you get your kitten neutered at the appropriate age, normally 51/2 to 6 months of age.A.R.C. and most other animal charities try to ensure that this is done by asking you to sign for this when you adopt a kitten. Most charities neuter cats over 6 months, before they are adopted.
The operation
Both procedures are performed under general anaesthetic. A female cat will have an area shaved on her flank and a vertical incision will be made. The ovaries and womb will then be removed. The wound is then stitched up, with either sutures or surgical staples. These are removed after 10 days. Pain killers may be administered and she will normally be allowed home on the same day.The male cat will have his testicles removed via two tiny incisions made in the scrotum. Stitches are not generally required, as the incisions will heal themselves.
The cost
It will cost about £60 to spay a female cat and about £40 to castrate a male cat. Please consider this expense before you take on a kitten. If you are on low income support you can be eligible for low cost neutering from organisations such as C.P.L, R.S.P.C.A, Blue Cross and Celia Hammond Trust. contact us for more details.WHY NEUTERING IS SO IMPORTANT?
Many thousands of kittens are born every year. Many of these will become unwanted and homeless within the first year. Some of these unwanted kittens and cats will find new homes but many of them will be destroyed because there are simply not enough homes.Even if you manage to find homes for your kittens, you will have taken those valuable homes away from the many unwanted cats and kittens. Don’t forget that an un-neutered tom will also be responsible for reproducing many litters.
Animal welfare organisations and other professional bodies are desperately trying to control the overpopulation tragedy, by ensuring that people do not allow their pets to breed and by educating owners about the benefits of neutering.
The benefits
Your male cat will be less likely to wander, reducing the risk of becoming lost or injured. He should stay closer to home and therefore be a better companion.He will be less likely to mark his territory by spraying strong smelling urine around the house and garden. (eau de chat is not a pleasant fragrance!)
He will be less interested in having territorial fights with other cats. Apart from sustaining injury, he would be at high risk from contracting several potentially lethal infectious diseases, such as F.I.V. and FeLV.
Your whole neighbourhood will benefit from not having to listen to the tuneless howling of the cat’s chorus!
Male and female cats tend to become calmer, even tempered and often more affectionate after neutering.
Entire females are more likely to develop reproductive cancers and are also at risk of contracting potentially lethal viruses through mating.
There is absolutely no benefit from allowing your female cat to have her ‘first’ litter. It will not make her calmer and it could put her health at risk.
Your cat will not become fat as a result of being neutered. He will only become fat if he is overfed (or if he is being fed by the rest of the neighbourhood!)